I had a very good 29 km walk today into the large-ish town of Fonsagrada. It´s one of those towns you see hours and hours before you arrive. And then right before you get really close, there is a steep descent, which you know means that you will have another ascent to get into town.
Perfect weather, a couple of pretty strenuous ascents, and not too many rocky paths on the way down. The albergue is about 2 km out of town, in the hamlet of Padron, but I decided to come back up so that I could use the internet. AND so I could eat my first pulpo gallego. Gallego style octopus is very simple, just boiled and then seasoned with olive oil and salt. I love it but can´t eat a lot at one sitting. So that means that a bunch of us will go and share a big plate. Now that we´re in Galicia, it is pretty easy to find, but there is a very highly regarded pulpería here.
Evidence of la crisis is everywhere. Here in town there´s a four star hotel sitting empty and for sale. Lots of businesses are shuttered. People in Galicia seem to be less optimistic than some of the other places I´ve been walking. The few I´ve talked with all seem to think doom is about to descend, and maybe they are right. But I´ll go do my bit for the economy by buying some octopus.
Two more days and then we´ll be in Lugo, which has some amazing walls and lots of Roman remains. Mosaics, villas, museum, etc. There is also a big Roman re-enactment festival of some sort going on, so things will be hopping. Maybe I´ll get to see a gladiator or two.
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