In Cistierna, three days from León

Well, I have left the mountains, and now have three long flat days into León.  Yesterday was a wonderful walk on the Roman Road (wonderful for the eyes and the sense of history, less wonderful for the feet that have to walk on it). But there was a lot of up and down, beautiful views, lots of birds flying up high.

I am now in Cistierna, and  I am feeling good and enjoying being the only person in a 24-bed albergue.

Yesterday in Ventasierra was a real low after a lovely 23 km walk.  There I was in a bedroom looking out over the rushing white water Esla River, and my left pinky toe was just throbbing and hurting.  I went through my mind with a lot of Plan B´s but none seemed really satisfying.  I fell asleep at about 9 pm and woke up early to get on the road.  The señora had left me a thermos of coffee and some juice, so I was really grateful.

The walk was all along the river, really beautiful at 7 in the morning.  And then and there I had an epiphany.  Maybe my left pinky toe was hurting so much because of the padding I had on my heel -- maybe that was making the toes more scrunched up.  So I took off the lovely molefoam padding on my heel and for the next 8 miles or so it seemed like I was walking better.  We´ll see but for now it is good!

I arrived in the unattractive town of Cistierna at about 11 in the morning, and went to the albergue.  There hasn´t been anyone there since last month, but oh well.  When I checked in at the town hall (ayuntamiento) the guy told me, the albergue is on the second floor, but on the first floor there is a "moro" living, but he´s a good guy.  (an employee of the municipality). The "moro" has helped me get the hot water on and has also helped me figure out how to use the locks on the door. I am continually amazed at how this kind of reference is perfectly acceptable in Spanish, at least to the ones who use it. 

I have one quick Spaniard story that David will appreciate.

When I went to the town hall to check in, I asked about internet.  The guy there told me there wasn´t any public internet, but maybe Nacho in the library would help me out.  After I washed clothes, etc, I went to the lbirary and here was our conversation:

-- Are you Nacho?
-- Yes
-- Jose Antonio in the city hall told me you might be able to let me get internet acess.
-- But,  mujer, this isn´t a public internet space, this is my work computer.  I don´t know why anyone told you there could be public access here.  And anyway, I have to leave in 10 minutes to go get a blood test in León.
-- I understand, no problem, sorry for the bother.
-- Oh come on.  I´ll give you 10 minutes.

Such a typical experience for me, not sure I understand what is going on though.

I am now optimistic that I´ll be walking into León in a few days.  Tomorrow there are a couple of stunning romanesque churches/monasteries, and I can´t wait!