Three days of walking since I last found a computer. I am now using the Hotel Presa´s machine.
I have a nice room overlooking a huge reservoir -- 9 small villages were submerged to build it, and this new town, Riaño, was built for all the displaced people. It´s a pretty charmless place, all built around 1990, but with a gorgeous view over the reservoir surrounded by mountains. And they saved a few of the romanesque churches and transported them stone by stone up to higher ground. A nice gesture, I guess.
I´ve gotten lots of emails about my feet, but no one seemed concerned that I slid down a mountain and scratched the beejeezus out of my body! My feet are doing better, but the pinky toes still screech out sometimes. I put disinfectant on them regularly and keep them clean, so it´s just a matter of time.
The last three walking days have ranged from 12 kms of mountain majesty to 10 kms of asphalt alongside a reservoir, or through a mountain pass.
There have been lots of green tunnels on ancient country lanes linking little towns hidden around the bends of these mountains. I haven´t met other peregrinos, but everyone along the way knows about this camino and agrees that it´s a shame it´s not more popular.
I think the next few days will be river-side walking, some Roman Road, and a mozarabic church or two thrown in for good measure. I am usually on the road by 7, walking in early morning is peaceful, cool and refreshing. Makes me thankful just to be alive.
I have about 4 more days walking till I merge with the Camino Francés and arrive in León the day after that. That will be weird! But I´ll only be on it for a couple of days because I´m heading to the Camino del Salvador, a 5 day walk through mountain heaven. Great views, lots of old churches (even one from the 7th century), and NO ASPHALT to speak of. I´m hoping my feet will be singing contently by then, instead of the screaming I hear after a few hours on a road.
Thanks for all the emails, and especially the pictures of Oliver! (and his lovely family). Love you guys.
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